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The Hawaiians are credited with being the fathers of surfing, and are known to have practiced the sport as early as the 15th century AD. The Hawaiian name for surfing “He’enalu” – can be translated as wave sliding. During its early history, surfing was taken as a sacred practice and only those with a high social status could take part; in other words – Hawaiian kings and queens were surfers. Ironically, today, surfing is seen by the general population as a sport for those who have dropped out of society, the very opposite to how it began.
As a people living on a cluster of small islands in a very big sea, the Hawaiians were not surprisingly fascinated by the ocean, and attached great meaning to its moods and forms. In a similar way to which the Inuit are said to have many names for snow, the Hawaiians also have hundreds of words to describe the various forms of the ever changing sea.
Just as modern day surf bums insist on surfing as a lifestyle rather than just a sport and thus devote great portions of time and money to the pursuit of the waves, Hawaiians also found unfathomable bounds with the practise, as the writings of Kepelino Keauokalani, a 19th Century Hawaiian Scholar, shows in his observations of the local Hawaiian surfers:
“All thought of work is at the end, only that of sport is left. The wife may go hungry, the children, the whole family, but the head of the house does not care. He is all for sport, that is his food. All day there is nothing but surfing. Many go out surfing as early as four in the morning: men, women, children.”
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Making Waves in Waikiki: Hawaii’s Surfing Heritage
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Read the full post (564 words, 1 image, estimated 2:15 mins reading time)
Tags: ancient hawaiians, California, century, Christian Missionaries, David Kalakau, Hawaii, Hawaii's, hawaiian kings, hawaiian shores, hawaiian surfers, Hawaiians, Heritage, Iceland, Indonesia, Making, sport, Surf, Surfing, Waikiki, wave, waves, world
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Surfing | April 22nd, 2011
Surfing is an amazing adventure sport. This is not the sport for everybody, but for the people who can handle the thick waves of the beach. The surfboard can be of any size â?? from less than three feet surfboards to 11 ft surfboards are available today. However, the size of the surfboard is no match to the skill and technique of the surfers. To stay afloat over the tides is the one important thing of surfing. Being able to catch the right tide (or wave), engaging at the right moment, staying at the right position and staying cleared of barriers like reefs or floating materials, etc are all desirable surfing skills.
It is not just about riding a wave, but also executing various manoeuvres. A good surfer is made only when he or she is able to catch the difficult waves, staying clear of dangers and performing tricks before finishing the ride. Not being hit by the wave. Tube riding is the dream of all surfers. It is about riding inside the wave, without the wave touching you down. It is quite amusing to see the wave curling over you and you are moving ahead of the wave, without letting the wave strike you down. It is the most difficult thing to achieve in surfing.
Turning and carving, cutback, off the lip, floater, etc are some skills surfers will be achieving pretty quickly. These skills are not learned from the land. You can learn these only after you get in the water, riding the waves. You can also get surfing lessons from experienced surfers, who will give you one-on-one lessons.
Tags: beach, experience, passion, riding the waves, Seas, sport, Surf, surfboard, Surfing, surfing conditions, surfing skills, Surfs, wave, wave activity, wave tube
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Surfing | April 3rd, 2010
It’s perfectly acceptable and, actually, highly recommended to take a surfing lesson when you’re just picking up the sport. You might think surfing is logical and that you will have the natural ability to pick it up right away, but the reality is that surfing is a very awkward sport when you first start out and there are tons of little tips that you can acquire only from a surf instructing professional.
Surf lessons can be private or in groups and last for about an hour. You will likely ride on a completely foam board that is nearly 10 feet long and very lightweight, which catches waves easily and gives you a lot of float. Most surf schools guarantee that you will stand up on a wave. If you don’t, you can usually come back for another lesson for free until you do. It might appear unnecessary and dorky, but a beginning surf lesson will likely accelerate your surfing ability more than the trial and error of learning on your own. If you go it alone, your learning curve will likely be slower, more painful, and in some cases more dangerous.
Another thing you must keep in mind is that friends who surf are not the same as surf instructors. Some of your friends may have been surfing for years, but if you ask them to go surfing with you to help you learn, they could well be worse than your least favorite middle school teacher. You and your experienced surfing friends might paddle out together, but your friends might leave you treading water at the lineup while they’re catching all the waves.
Tags: Hour, instructor, lesson, Lessons, middle school teacher, Paddle, Spent, sport, Surf, surf instructor, surf lesson, Surfing, surfing ability, surfing lesson, wave, Well
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Surfing | February 19th, 2010
I own and run a surf travel company on Australia’s Gold Coast. My business basically pulls together all the services offered on the Gold Coast that a travelling surfer needs. We then go the extra step of renting our surfboards to our clients, for the duration of their holiday. The idea is simple, we want to ensure our clients have the surfing holiday of their life, without the hassle of sorting out the logistics when they arrive.
One of the great things about this business is I deliver the surfboards myself. This gives me the opportunity to have a brief chat with every surfer coming through the Gold Coast using my services. I really enjoy this part of the business as being a surfer myself, I enjoy the contact with people who have a similar passion to mine. Also, it gives me the opportunity to get into the heads of my clients, so I can understand what their expectations are for their surfing holiday and can continually improve my services based on their desires.
“I wish I was a little bit fitter for this holiday”, so many of my clients tell me when returning their surfboards. This is the number 1 desire of the travelling surfers who use my services. The want a higher level of surfing fitness for their holidays. It makes sense really. When you go on a surfing trip, you end up surfing 2 – 3 times a day, which will probably equates to 4 – 6 hours a day in th water. This you do consistently over a period of 5 – 10 days. It is a lot of surfing. No matter how much you surf at home, you will be surfing more when on holiday.
Tags: Australia, fitness, gold coast, holiday, level, part, real fitness, Surf, surf travel, Surfing, surfing holiday, surfing trip, water
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Surfing | October 5th, 2009
If you are exploring holiday destinations try Portugal Surfing holidays this season.You will find Portugal Surfing Holidays to be a very unique and special experience that will give you an opportunity to enjoy the truly stylish and exciting culture. The Portugal Surfing Holidays are for everyone – for singles, couples and families looking to experience warm sunshine, pleasant water conditions and excellent sea food or great wine.
So Portugal Surfing Holidays will prove to be a great idea to go for a perfectly holiday -relaxing and action packed at the same time. You can go with your friends and family, and believe me there’s no better spot for that than Portugal. Some people are under the misconception that holiday with Portugal Surf in mind, is just for young college-goers. That is not true. Even if you’re older, or younger, you can still have fun with Portugal Surfing Holidays.
If you are planning Portugal Surfing Holidays first and foremost what you should do is to explore district regions of Portugal. Each district has something unique to offer. Right from the lush vineyards of the Douro in the north to the craggy coastline of Alentejo in south-west Portugal to holidays on the sandy beaches of Portugal’s Estoril Coast which offers green and unending golf courses in the Algarve to the mid-Atlantic Azores islands if you would like whale watching and nature trips as part of your Portugal Surfing Holidays
Portugal Surfing Holidays is one of the oldest adventure sports known to man. Historians have dated Portugal Surf adventure to as early as 3000 years ago, but the modern form of Portugal Surf as we know of it today was developed in Hawaii couple of centuries ago. Portugal Surf as a sport came to Portugal much later, but now it’s a major sport for amateur surfers because of friendly waves that help a beginner learn it in safe and encouraging environment.
This is a preview of
Make The Most Of Your Portugal Surfing Holidays
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Tags: adventure, Algarve, Atlantic, azores islands, craggy coastline, estoril coast, golf courses in the algarve, Hawaii, holiday, Holidays, Most, Portugal, portugal surfing, sport, Surf, Surfing, west Portugal
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Surfing | August 3rd, 2009
Sand. Sun. Surf. Think beach, and those are the first descriptions that pop up. Images of azure waters gently rolling to pristine shores, coconut and palm fronds waving in the sea breeze, the soft tinkling of wood-and-string instruments accompanied by the staccato of percussions… all in keeping with the picture-perfect summer holiday. So the general, typical beach-going public would agree.
But take it to a different world: one of waves swelling to as high as thirty feet overhead, of deeply tanned pecs, abs, biceps and legs running, jumping and swimming in shape and of human figures skating the surface of these gigantic waves on colorful boards in a race against crashing foam and surf. It’s the world of surfing.
Surfing traces its historic roots in the early Polynesian people of Hawaii. Memoirs written by Capt. James Cook on his visits to the Pacific are the earliest records of surfing anywhere in the world. Traditionally, the people of Hawaii lay flat on their bellies on wooden boards to skim the waves. Surfing is deeply-rooted in Hawaiian and Polynesian culture, playing a role in the construction of legends and myths. The imminent danger faced while surfing, the thought of conquering the waves, the thrill of being atop them and the discipline it takes to reach all of the above: these elements are responsible for the excitement and popularity that surfing has become.
Tags: Angelo Pappas, Anne Marie, Capt. James Cook, Culture, Gary Busey, gigantic waves, God, Hawaii, Hollywood, Johnny Utah, Kate Bosworth, Keanu Reeves, legends and myths, Los Angeles, Movies, Pacific, palm fronds, Patrick Swayze, Pipe, pipe masters, sea, Summer, Surf, surfer, Surfing, Utah, world