Surfing and Movies
Sand. Sun. Surf. Think beach, and those are the first descriptions that pop up. Images of azure waters gently rolling to pristine shores, coconut and palm fronds waving in the sea breeze, the soft tinkling of wood-and-string instruments accompanied by the staccato of percussions… all in keeping with the picture-perfect summer holiday. So the general, typical beach-going public would agree.
But take it to a different world: one of waves swelling to as high as thirty feet overhead, of deeply tanned pecs, abs, biceps and legs running, jumping and swimming in shape and of human figures skating the surface of these gigantic waves on colorful boards in a race against crashing foam and surf. It’s the world of surfing.
Surfing traces its historic roots in the early Polynesian people of Hawaii. Memoirs written by Capt. James Cook on his visits to the Pacific are the earliest records of surfing anywhere in the world. Traditionally, the people of Hawaii lay flat on their bellies on wooden boards to skim the waves. Surfing is deeply-rooted in Hawaiian and Polynesian culture, playing a role in the construction of legends and myths. The imminent danger faced while surfing, the thought of conquering the waves, the thrill of being atop them and the discipline it takes to reach all of the above: these elements are responsible for the excitement and popularity that surfing has become.
